Friday, April 5, 2013

Can Cats and Houseplants Just Get Along?



If your houseplants are looking a little ragged or your cat shows symptoms of illness, interaction between them could be the cause. Houseplants may be good for the health of a home but can be dangerous for our feline friends. It is possible, however, to create a level of détente between them.

Although cats aren’t herbivores (their teeth aren’t designed for grinding plant matter), they do like plants as both toys and snacks. “I haven’t seen any consensus or definitive answer on why,” said Pam Johnson-Bennett, CCBC, owner of Cat Behavior Associates in Nashville, Tenn., who is a former veterinary technician and author of the recently released Think Like a Cat. “Chewing greenery may help with digestion, or something may be lacking in their diet. Boredom can do it; plants become something dangling and irresistible to bat and play with, and the next step is to chew on them.”

The problem is that “plants are either deadly or, at the very least, toxic to cats,” Johnson-Bennett said. “If they don’t kill your cat, at least it will experience intestinal disorders. Even the most basic houseplant, such as philodendron, is toxic, and toxicity can be extremely painful. Dieffenbachia can cause the cat’s tongue to swell, which affects breathing.”

Signs of Trouble

It’s fairly easy to tell if your cat has chewed on or swallowed a plant; the symptoms are vomiting, difficulty in breathing and lethargy. “If you see bits of plant matter in the vomitus or stool, there’s a good chance” the cat has snacked on your plants, according to Johnson-Bennett. Be sure you know the names of plants in your house, because knowing what plant your cat has eaten can affect treatment; inducing vomiting is sometimes the right move, but that can sometimes make matters worse.

If you notice these behaviors, call the veterinarian right away. “I don’t wait,” Johnson-Bennett said. “If I think my cat has ingested something poisonous, I am on the phone to the vet right away. Don’t have a wait-and-see attitude.”

The Association for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals’ poison control center (aspca.org/Pet-care/poison-control/plant-list-cats.aspx) may be able to help, but nothing replaces getting to the vet right away.

Creating a Safe Harbor

A big believer that cats can be trained, Johnson-Bennett said that cats can be discouraged from eating houseplants if you apply bitter antichew spray made specifically for plants to the tops and bottoms of leaves. “You have to use it a couple of times at first, and reapply it on occasion.” (Be sure to wear gloves and a mask when using such a spray, and to wash your hands immediately after using it.)

Give cats a safe alternative that fulfills their apparent need for greenery; grass is the best bet. “You can grow cat grass in a place away from your plants; there are kits at pet stores and organic food stores. Wheat grass is very safe,” Johnson-Bennett noted. This may cause vomiting as well in some cats as a natural reaction when eating grass.

The best way to encourage cats to leave plants alone is to make sure they have enough play time, activities and toys to distract them from the plants, she said.

By the way, cats aren’t the only animals to pose a threat to houseplants; dogs may also nibble on houseplants when bored or lonely. “Dogs are chewers, so that problem can be solved by providing chew toys—something that is self-soothing, encourages comfort behavior and reduces separation anxiety,” Johnson-Bennett said.

Even better than training your cat to stay away from your plants is to “train the plants”:
  • Trim the trailing leaves and fronds of plants in hanging baskets to keep them out of reach.
  • Move plants away from areas where your cat likes to play or relax, and out of the path to the litter box.
  • Put garden netting or double-sided tape in planters in a criss-cross pattern to keep cats out.
  • Put large (too big for the cat to swallow and too heavy to move easily) river stones on top of dirt so that potting dirt isn’t easily accessible, which is both effective and decorative.
RESOURCES

This article originally appeared in PetsMatter March / April 2012, published by the American Animal Hospital Association. Copyright © 2012 AAHA.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Groom Your Cat

The team at Greater Lafayette Cat Hospital is committed to all aspects of your cat's comfort and health, and sometimes this is best achieved with a good grooming! We recommend this article because it gives some great explanations of the importance of proper grooming, how to do it correctly, and how to make your cat enjoy it. As always, we recommend that you contact us right away if you have questions or concerns, or if there is some aspect of your cat's care that you do not feel comfortable implementing yourself!

Groom Your Cat



Your feline will look (and feel!) like the cat’s meow after a good grooming session.
By nature, cats are extremely fastidious. You’ve no doubt watched your kitty washing herself several times a day. For the most part she can take care of herself very well, thank you, but sometimes she’ll need a little help from you.

Make Grooming as Enjoyable as Possible—For the Both of You!

Grooming sessions should be fun for the both of you, so be sure to schedule them when your cat’s relaxed, perhaps after exercise or eating. You want your pet to remember grooming sessions in a positive way, so you never want to risk losing your temper. If you’ve had a stressful day or are in a bad mood, it’s probably not a good time to groom your cat.
Keep your first grooming sessions short—just 5 to 10 minutes. Gradually lengthen the time until your pet is used to the routine. You should also get your pet used to being handled. Get in the habit of petting every single part of your cat—including ears, tail, belly and back—and especially the feet!
And keep in mind, a little patience can go a long way. If your cat is extremely stressed out, cut the session short and try again when she’s calmer. Unfortunately, most cats do not like baths, so you may need another person to help. And remember to pile on the praise and offer her a treat when the session is over.


Brushing



Regular sessions with a brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils throughout her coat, preventing tangles and keeping her skin clean and irritant-free.
If your cat has short hair, you only need to brush once a week:
- First, use a metal comb and work through her fur from head to tail.
- Next, use a bristle or rubber brush to remove dead and loose hair.
- Be extra-gentle near her chest and belly.
If your cat has long hair, you will need to brush every day:
- Start by combing her belly and legs; be sure to untangle any knots.
- Next, brush her fur in an upward motion with a bristle or rubber brush.
- To brush her tail, make a part down the middle and brush the fur out on either side.

 

Bathing

If your cat’s coat becomes greasy and oily, or if she’s gotten into something sticky or smelly, she’ll benefit from a bath. Use a mild shampoo that’s safe to use on cats, and follow these easy steps:
- First, give your pet a good brushing to remove all dead hair and mats.
- Place a rubber bath mat in a sink or tub to provide secure footing.
- Put your cat in a tub or sink that has been filled with about 3 to 4 inches of lukewarm water.
- Use a spray hose to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in her ears, eyes or nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, a large plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup will do.
- Gently massage in shampoo, working from head to tail.
- Thoroughly rinse with a spray hose or pitcher; again, avoid the ears, eyes and nose
- Dry your pet with a large towel.


Nail Clipping

Most people really don’t handle their cats’ feet until they are about to clip the nails and then…watch out! Some animals can get very upset at this totally foreign feeling. That’s why it’s a good idea to get your cat used to having her feet touched before you attempt a nail trim. Rub your hand up and down her leg and then gently press each individual toe—and be sure to give her lots of praise and some food treats as you do this. Every animal is different, but chances are that within a week or two of daily foot massage, your cat will accept nail clipping with too much fuss. Here’s how to do it:

- Begin by applying gentle pressure to the top of the foot and cushiony pad underneath—this will cause her to extend her claws.
- Use sharp, high-quality cat nail scissors to cut off the white tip of each nail, just before the point where it begins to curl.
- Take care to avoid the quick, a vein that runs into the nail. This pink area can be seen through the nail.
- If you do accidentally cut into this pink area, it may bleed, in which case you can apply some styptic powder to stop the bleeding.


Originally published by the ASPCA.

Friday, February 15, 2013

Have You Brushed Your Pet’s Teeth Lately?




Dental Health Month Reminder from Greater Lafayette Cat Hospital

The team at Greater Lafayette Cat Hospital wants to remind you that February is Dental Health Month, and it's important to be concerned about your cat's oral health. Some pet owners mistakenly believe that dental care is only for dogs, but it's not! Cat's need regular care as well. We encourage you to read this article and contact us if you have questions!
 

Have  You Brushed Your Pet's Teeth Lately?


Can you imagine what your teeth would be like if you didn’t brush them for a year? Talk about bad breath! Considering your pet can’t brush his own teeth, this is kind of what he experiences. February is National Pet Dental Health Month and a great reminder that dental health is more than just teeth; your pet’s oral hygiene affects his overall health. Diseases of the mouth can often be painful and can contribute to additional problems. Having regular dental checkups and having your pet’s teeth cleaned are important to ensuring a positive quality of life.

According to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS), 80% of dogs and 70% of cats show signs of oral disease by age three, often indicated by bad breath, a change in eating or chewing habits, pawing at the face and mouth, bleeding gums, and depression. “In the vast majority of cases, however, there are little to no outward clinical signs of the disease process, and therefore, therapy often comes very late in the disease course,” explains Brook A. Neimeic, DVM, DAVDC, FAVD and chief of staff at Southern California Veterinary Dentistry Specialties. “Consequently, periodontal disease is also the most under-treated animal health problem.”

Pet Dental Health Campaign spokesperson Dr. Linda J. DeBowes, veterinarian at Shoreline Veterinary Dental Clinic in Seattle, warns pet owners trying to save money not to skimp on regular veterinary care for their pets. "The expenses associated with professional dental treatment may be significant; however, if this preventative care is not done, the cost to the owner may well be much higher in diagnostics and management of dental disease," DeBowes said.

“I tell clients that dental care for their pets is like changing the oil in their car,” says Neimeic. “It is an expense, and it’s time-consuming, but it is cheaper than replacing the engine. At least once a week, I am forced to extract half, if not more, of a pet’s teeth due to severe periodontal disease. My record is 38 at one sitting. This can cost up to $6,000, which is less than annual cleanings every year for the life of the dog!”

Your veterinary team is highly trained and a great resource for helping you provide preventative dental care for your pet. Regular dental checkups are a good start to preventative care for your pet. AAHA recommends that you talk to your veterinarian about how often “regular” refers to and develop a dental plan specific to your pet, based on her unique life stage circumstances. 

During one of these preventative dental exams, your AAHA-accredited veterinary team will take a thorough history, assess pain, chart any irregularities and determine an overall treatment plan for your pet. They may recommend diagnostic testing, which could include:
  • Blood work to determine your pet’s overall health status and ability to metabolize anesthesia
  • Radiographs (X-rays), especially if they determine your pet may need extractions
  • Recommendations for a dry food diet, special foods, treats, rinses and chew toys
  • Prescription for antibiotics and/or pain medications
In addition to professional dental care, DeBowes advises pet owners to make oral home care part of their pet’s routine as a way to prevent tooth decay.

You can help by taking an active role in your pet’s dental health care:
  • Learn to brush your pet’s teeth. Ask your veterinarian to teach you the best and safest way to brush your pet’s teeth to avoid being bitten. Although daily tooth brushing is advised for both dogs and cats, only 2% of dog owners follow through. It’s best to start at an early age, but adult dogs and cats can learn to tolerate brushing. Use a specially-formulated toothpaste, because the kind for humans may upset your pet’s stomach.
  • Feed your pet a high-quality diet. Ask your veterinarian about foods and treats with proven benefits in plaque and tartar removal.
  • Provide chew toys that stimulate gums and help clean teeth.
The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) created the AAHA Dental Care Guidelines to help veterinarians and their teams provide excellent dental care for dogs and cats and to educate pet owners about the importance of proper dental care throughout their pets’ lives. Check out this article on www.healthypet.com for more information on dental care for your pet and the AAHA Dental Care Guidelines. 

This article originally appeared in PetsMatter January/February 2011, published by the American Animal Hospital Association. Copyright © 2011 AAHA. It also can be found on Healthy Pet.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

ASPCA Winter Cat Care and Safety Tips

When the weather outside turns cold and snowy, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) reminds you to think about your pet's safety and recommends the following winter care tips to protect your companion animal:

1. Keep your cats inside. Outdoor cats can freeze, or become lost or stolen, injured or killed.

2. During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes sleep under car hoods for warmth. Before starting your car, bang loudly on the hood and wait a few seconds to give the cat a chance to escape.

3. Antifreeze, even in tiny doses, is a lethal poison for cats. Unfortunately, its sweet taste attracts animals to it. Thoroughly clean up spills from your vehicle. To prevent accidental poisoning, more and more people are using animal-friendly products that contain propylene glycol rather than traditional products containing ethylene glycol. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-4ANI-HELP) if you suspect your animal has been poisoned.

4. Never leave your pet alone in a car during the cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold. Your companion animal could freeze to death.

5. Make sure your pet has a warm place to sleep far away from drafts and off the floor. Consider a cat bed or basket with a warm blanket or pillow in it.


Originally published by the Cat Channel.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Car Engines and Cats


As the days start getting shorter and cooler, your outside cat, as well as other cats in the neighborhood, may be looking for warm places to spend the night. A common place for cats to go for warmth is under the hood of cars, because engines retain their warmth long after the car has been driven. If a car is started under these circumstances, great injury, or even death, can occur for the cat. Protect your outside cat, and your neighbors’ cats, by knocking on the hood every morning before you start your car. 

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Diabetes. What it is, what it's not, and understanding the difference.

So, you just got the news from the vet. Your fuzzy darling has diabetes! Insulin shots, blood testing, sugar values, infections. Life as you know it is ruined.

Is it?

No, not really. There are a lot of things to learn about diabetes, some new things to stick into the daily grind, but honestly, you'll be just fine.

Understanding diabetes is the best place to start. What it is, what it's not, what's happening in the body, and how to control it are just the first bits of info you'll need. With a good understanding, you'll find that you'll be on top of the situation in no time.

Sugar. What we put into our coffee, eat in sweet things, drink in sodas.sugar. It's everywhere. And it's important.

The body needs a certain amount of sugar to produce enough energy to keep on living. Imagine a cell as a small globe, with 'doorways' leading into and out of it. That's the basic structure of the body.a cell. From the blood, certain things like salt and sugar and protein find their special 'doorway', enter the cell, and feed the cell what it needs to do it's job - make another cell, or make a hormone, or make energy, or all of that and more. Some cells have many jobs, some cells have only one or two; but all are important to the body's health.

Specifically to sugar, the cell's doorway has a lock on it. Insulin, a hormone, has the key. I call insulin a "key" because if a sugar molecule and an insulin molecule hold hands, insulin can open the cell door, let the sugar in, and then close the door behind it; but without insulin, there is no key to opening the door. The sugar can knock on the door all day long, and nothing happens; the cell can't open the door and let the sugar in by itself.

But the cell needs the sugar. To make energy, or to make a new cell wall, or to create a protein, the cell can't do it's job without sugar. Each and every living cell needs sugar - especially the brain cells - and if there isn't any available, things in the system start to go wonky. The body can't produce energy, and without energy, the body can't do it's normal things like keep blood flowing, let signals from nerves get to the places it is supposed to go, and, in the end, breathing and thinking get affected and sometimes stopped. Not so good, right?

Insulin is the key to the door. If there is no insulin, the sugar can't make it into the cells. If the cells don't have sugar, they can't function. Pretty simple.

So where does sugar come from? Mostly from the foods we eat. There's sugar that we eat - sweetened stuff (like coffee and tea), sugar from proteins (like meat and legumes), and sugar from carbohydrates (like breads, potatoes, cereals, rice, pasta). Cats need far fewer carbohydrates than humans do, so when we give them carbohydrates, it shows up as sugar that they can't use. Cats don't actually drink sweetened drinks, or eat ice cream (well ... so one of mine actually likes ice cream, but whatever). Their bodies are designed to extract enough sugar for their cells' needs from protein, and not from sweetened stuff or from carbohydrates (for more info on that, look at Dr. Peirson's article on feline diet).

When there is too much sugar in the system, other organs have to work harder to clear the sugar. The liver, kidneys, and circulatory system go into high gear, and do their best to get the extra sugar out of the body. The liver takes it and hides it away for future use. Once that happens, and there's still extra sugar, the kidneys stick it into urine, and the sugar passes out of the body through peeing. But after a while, sometimes the liver's storage is full, and the kidneys can't get more sugar into the urine, and the blood system has to hold onto the sugar until something changes. And that's when we get "high" blood sugar numbers.

Well, what about insulin? Where does it come from? It comes from the pancreas. The pancreas is a floppy bit of tissue that lays over the top of the stomach and next to the liver. There are special cells called "beta cells" which only produce the hormone insulin; that's their whole job. They do nothing else, really, except make insulin. When the body discovers that the cells don't have enough sugar, insulin runs out of the pancreas, chases down a sugar molecule, and escorts it into the cell that needs it to make whatever it is the cell makes - thoughts, nerve conduction, energy for movement or building new cells.whatever that cell's job is.

So, why isn't there enough insulin? Because the beta cells are damaged somehow. Sometimes, it's temporary. Sometimes, it's permanent. It can be from a virus, infections, trauma, some medications (steroids), or even just because we've worn them out with too much sugar or carbohydrate consumption. But whatever causes it, the beta cells are not working anymore; which means they can't send out insulin to escort the sugar into the cell; which then means that the cell can't do it's job. That's called diabetes.

What we see at that point is high sugar numbers in the blood stream. The meters count only that sugar which can't be brought into the cells, usually because of a lack of insulin. We'll also see things like lots of peeing and lots of water drinking, lots of hunger, weight loss, hair loss, skin changes.all because there is no sugar available to let those cells do their jobs. (More about that in a minute.)

When we put insulin into the body, we are replacing the hormone our body naturally makes. This replacement takes the sugar from the blood stream and into the cells, and lets the cells use it for their work. When you have enough of the hormone insulin and the right balance of sugar, urination will become normal, eating will become less frenzied, hair growth will resume, and energy will be restored. Why? Because all the cells are getting what they need, and are able to do their job again.

All because of a little hormone called insulin.

But too much insulin is actually far more dangerous than too little. Imagine all these insulin molecules standing by the door to the cell, waiting for sugar to cross it's path, lurking, lying in wait.as a sugar molecule comes by, the insulin will kidnap it, throw it into the cell, and slam the door (I call that the "Insulin Gestapo").well, once that goes on for a little while, there is not enough sugar for the rest of the cells, right? That's why we treat low sugar by putting sugar back into the system - so we can use up the insulin 'Gestapo' and let the cells who need it, get it, and do their job. That's the whole idea behind feeding the low sugar event; we're using up the excess insulin, and trying to create a balance of available sugar and enough insulin so the sugar can get into the cell, but not an overactive insulin molecule that kidnaps sugar and throws it into the first available cell it finds.

So finding the balance - the correct ratio of sugar to insulin - is important. The only real way to do that is to test the blood a lot, and see how much sugar is left in the blood, and at what time it's there. We can reduce or increase the insulin based on that information, and make it better for the cells to have a continuous, regular supply of sugar to do it's job. But it's vital to know how much sugar is in the blood stream at a given point, because you don't want to create the Insulin Gestapo. The only way to know that, is to test. And test. And test.

Diabetes is a pretty simple illness to understand. But it's important to really understand it, because the key is the balance between sugar and hormone insulin. That's the "sugar dance", as we call it.the in and out of sugar and insulin in the cells, the replacing of insulin that the body can't make for whatever reason, and finding the correct amount of insulin to give so that there is enough sugar in the blood, but not too much and not too little. And, much to our dismay, it can vary from day to day, and even time to time within a day, depending on food, stress, happiness, and - let's face it, they're cats; they do their own thing.

So why all the peeing? The excessive thirstiness? The rough hair, the dandruff? The weight loss?

Peeing too much comes from the kidneys realizing "hey, there's a lot of sugar here. We'll filter some out and throw it into the urine, and get rid of it that way." The kidneys go to work and creates a lot of urine production in a short amount of time, and it has to let it go down to the bladder and out. Voila, lots of peeing.

Well, why the thirst? Because when the body is getting rid of sugar, it takes water from the rest of the body to make the urine, to give the sugar somewhere to go, and the end result is peeing. The body realizes that the kidneys are using a lot of water up, more than usual, and says "hey, we need more water!" and triggers the thirst response. So drinking goes way up, because the body's pee production is in overdrive, and the body needs to have enough water in it for everything else. So now you've got big time thirst, too.

Peeing and drinking. Fine. So what about the eating like they're starving?

If the body's cells think they're not getting sugar, even though it's in the blood stream (remember the doorway and the key?), the body says "hey, get some food in here so we can break it down to sugar and get the sugar into the cells for energy. We're starving here!!" Problem is, it's not actually a lack of food; rather, it's a lack of insulin keys to get the sugar into the cells.but the cells don't know that. They just figure that if more food comes, they'll be able to get the sugar they need. Wrong message, but it's what happens. The body is trying to stay alive, the cells are trying to do their job; but without sugar (because the door is locked, and insulin is the key), they can't. So they trigger the hunger response.and more food is consumed.

Which, of course, raises the blood sugar even higher. Which, in turn, makes the liver store a lot of sugar, and then the kidneys work overtime to get rid of the excess sugar in the blood stream, which, of course, leads to more peeing, which then in turn leads to more drinking.

Vicious cycle, isn't it?

So, why is there weight loss?

Because if the body can't use the materials sent to it through food, it will turn to its pantry. The pantry is all the stored 'fat' the body has; it's been stored for exactly times like this - starvation times. The cells raid the pantry, but if the pantry can't be restocked (because there is no insulin to provide the key), the body uses up all it's stored stuff, and then starts breaking itself down so it has enough food to keep the vital functions going - the brain, the heart, and the lungs. The weight loss comes from raiding the pantry.and even though we put food into the body - it can't use it, because there is no insulin to unlock the doorway and let the sugar in from all that food that's been eaten.

If the body can't get enough food and sugar from the stored fat, it will turn to the muscles. If you imagine this process as if it were a house and there is a bad snowstorm outside, it helps. Let's say this storm has been raging for a while now. You've eaten everything in the fridge, and burned all the wood in the woodshed. Now, you're cold, and hungry. You start getting into the pantry, and soon deplete all of that. You've burned the chairs and dining table for heat. And the storm is still raging - no let up in sight. Now what are you going to do? Start taking down the cabinets and using that for firewood.and then the built in bookshelves. And then the walls. That's sort of what the body is doing by breaking down the muscles; using the structures of the house (body) as a source of energy to keep the vital systems going.

After all the fat has been depleted, the body turns to the muscles as sources of food. The body will canabalize itself, again to preserve the vital functions, and break down the protein that the muscles are made from. This is a problem, you know? What happens is that the cell takes what it needs from these broken muscles, and lets the rest remain in the blood stream. When that stuff gets to the kidneys, the kidneys again are in overdrive, trying to get rid of this stuff - called ketones - and throws it out in the urine. Ketones are the end products of excess protein - or leftover muscle - and are a result of having no insulin in the blood to let the sugar go into the cells. The body breaks down the muscles (the cabinets and walls of the "house"), and the by-product is called ketones.

The biggest issue with ketones is that they clog up the kidney's tubes and collecting spots. It's like hair in a drain - a little isn't so bad an issue, but collect a lot and you've got yourself one good, solid clogged up drain. So if ketones are clogging the drain, the stuff the kidneys are supposed to send out of the body - sugars, excess protein bits, and lots of toxins - stay in the blood, and soon, the kidneys give up; they can't work under those conditions, and just kind of throw up their hands and go on strike. If that happens, it's called "acute kidney failure", and it's pretty serious.

With insulin, though, the cells get the sugar they need because insulin provides the key to the sugar doorway. The cells don't have to resort to breaking down the muscles; they don't have to find other sources of sugar to produce energy. They don't get to starvation mode, and they don't get dehydrated because the kidneys are using up all the water available in the body. Everything works the way it's supposed to, and no backup systems get triggered. Cells thrive, produce energy needed for everything, and all is in balance (called "homeostasis").

We do need to replace the insulin, as that is the foundation for everything here. If there is one hormone more important than any other one, it's insulin. But it's a dangerous hormone, too. If you put insulin into the body, there is always a chance to produce the dreaded "Insulin Gestapo" and have a low sugar event (called 'hypoglycemia'). But again, the way to deal with that is to use up the Gestapo - give them all the sugar they can handle, and get them all tired out and broken down.

Use the insulin carefully. "Start low, go slow" is the motto around here. Don't start giving a lot of insulin in the beginning, because you don't really know how much sugar your baby has available. When you increase, increase slowly; prevent the Insulin Gestapo from arriving by carefully testing, monitoring, and handling a low sugar count quickly. And especially don't give high doses of insulin if you're changing the diet to a high protein, ultra-low carb one. That might be all your feline "owner" needs - a change of diet. But you won't know unless you're testing regularly, right? Change the dose after you've changed the diet, but not at the same time. Otherwise, how will you know which had the effect you wanted?

And before you get overwhelmed about the testing and the injections, realize this: it's totally doable. It's a learned skill, and you will have some ups and downs, but you and your fuzzy friend can learn it together. There are a lot of tutorials available, and there are many people here who will help walk you through it. You can do this!

That's what diabetes is, in a nutshell. It's a common, survivable, chronic issue for both people and felines.

The good news is that in felines, sometimes those beta cells come back from vacation, heal, and get back to work! That doesn't happen in humans... lucky cats, right?

Originally published at FelineDiabetes.